Bangkok is great, but some peace and clean air was more than welcome on my recent trip to Ubonratchatani, a northeast province bordering Laos. Promising to work realllly hard when I got back, I took a few days off and joined Amnesty International Thailand’s Human Rights Defender’s camp from 24 – 28 October.

Pon loved having a captive audience on the train ride to Ubon

The Wisdom Centre in Ubon. Beautiful and reverent

I felt like the stupid, ignorant foreigner I am as I learned about the devastating impact the construction of a dam on the Moon River has had on local communities. The Thai government commissioned the Pak Moon Dam eight years ago in the name of development, to generate electricity to supply burgeoning industry in the area. But the project was badly planned and has negatively affected thousands of local villagers. When the sluice gates are closed fish can’t migrate upstream to breed, so there has been a sharp drop in available fish stocks. The slow moving water around the dam attracts disease and has affected what little fish are around. And the rise in water levels has displaced entire communities that used to live near the banks of the Moon.

As you can see,'poverty as a human rights violation' was a hot topic

The Pak Moon Dam. While the gates are open (to prevent flooding in the rainy season) fish can migrate

Many families in Ubon live on what they grow and catch, needing as little cash as 2000 baht per year (about AUD$85). So when a plentiful source of fish suddenly evaporates you can imagine the difficulties locals would face. Besides food shortages, the river was an important source of protein, entertainment and livelihoods. The government paid compensation to hundreds of families so they could relocate to rice growing areas but the adjustment has not been easy. There seems to be an unspoken acknowledgement of the injustice of the dam between people in Ubon, who really are ‘victims of development’. To make it worse, the dam only generates about 10-15% of the electricity it was planned to.

This family was forced to move when their village was swallowed by rising water levels due to the construction of the Pak Moon Dam

Growing rice is a big change for families who have fished for generations

One positive to come out of the dam is the empowerment of the local people. In their fight against the government to prevent its construction, and then to have its gates opened permanently, they have learnt about the constitutional and legal rights they are entitled to, and have worked together to get their voice heard. The camp was held in a stunning semi-open conference hall managed by The Assembly of the Poor, who have seven similar facilities across Thailand. Staying in simple huts and one night with a family in the village gave participants some perspective on how urban Thais live. It was refreshing to be reminded that happiness and material wealth are not the same thing.

Where the Moon and Mekong Rivers meet, on the Thai-Laos border at sunset, just after a heavy storm

New mates exploring the museum dedicated to the effects of the dam

The camp itself was action-packed, exhausting, emotional, and fun. Thais have a lot of energy and love group games! The language barrier was no big deal. The common purpose of everyone who attended – to learn about human rights in Ubon and meet like-minded people – meant I made some very good friends without understanding a word they said. Amnesty did a great job organising the camp which included a boat trip up the Moon River to where it meets the Mekong. For someone that likes rain, watching a heavy electrical storm batter the hills of Laos from across the Mekong is simply stunning. It’s a shame that the Thai government plans to build dams there too.

Nonthaburi Courthouse. Cameras unwelcome

It was a preliminary hearing in a murder case from the southern province of Pattani. The region has been in conflict for years, characterised by some as separatism, other as ethnic conflict, and by a few as Muslim extremism. Whatever the root cause, it’s resulted in many prosecutions against Muslim defendants, often based on shaky charges. The defendant is accused of complicity in a beheading. He has been detained for over eighteen months now. He says he was badly beaten soon after being arrested but he refused to confess to the crime.

Many issues raise concern about prosecutions in Thailand’s south. Under the emergency laws in operation over Pattani, Yala and Narathiwat, the military can detain someone for seven days without charge. After seven days if the military wants to keep the person (which they usually do) they apply to bring him under a second law which, with the approval of the court, permits detention for 30 days without charge. On top of that, observers coming from the region said that at the end of the 30 days the military have been simply moving the suspect to another prison and applying to the court for yet another 30 days detention without charge.

In this case, the defendant was charged with complicity in murder (I’m not sure how long after his arrest). Up until his first hearing – 18 months after his arrest – he had been given only one thin document about his charges. For those 18 months the defendant had only a vague idea of the facts alleged to have occurred, and his lawyers couldn’t begin preparing a proper defence case in all this time.

At the hearing itself the three co-accused were brought to the courtroom shackled together, heavy chains around their wrists and ankles. I had heard something of Thai prisons before (and you can see some blogs here) but was still shocked that the defendants were brought to the hearing in such heavy chains and dirty red prison clothes. I wasn’t allowed to take pictures but an example of these chains is here: My concern is that pre-judgements can be more easily formed against people that appear to be criminals, and that this detracts from the presumption of innocence supposedly alive in Thailand.

I’m also concerned about the methods of the prosecutor. He introduced a forensic report to the court and asked the defence to accept it (having had a whole five minutes to read what looked to be a sizeable document). Not surprisingly, it was rejected. On good grounds, I might add: evidence had been obtained from a motorbike (allegedly used as a getaway vehicle) two months after the offence. The State seemed much more concerned with a speedy conviction than due process.

There’s even more. Shortly before his hearing he was charged with a second offence, of ‘belonging to a separatist movement.’ This document is ridiculously vague and does not give details of one specific act that might constitute this charge – and yet this is what the defendant’s lawyers must prepare his defence case on. You can see an unofficial translation of the charge document here.

Prisoner transport. Not your average hotel transfer

A friend of mine here agreed with my concerns with a smile and a joke, in that uncanny way that only people who have seen much hardship can pull off. Three intelligence officers competing in a worldwide intelligence challenge have reached the final round. They must find the only rabbit in ten square kilometres of jungle. They each run off, and after some time the KGB agent returns exhausted and empty handed. A short time later the CIA agent comes back, also without a rabbit. Then some horrific sounds start to come from the jungle – animals screeching in pain, bones breaking. A dirty and sweating Thai intelligence agent emerges from the scrub claiming victory, dragging a beaten and bloodied goat. When questioned by the competition announcer, the Thai officer whacks the goat again, who says in a broken voice… ‘I’m a rabbit, I’m a rabbit, please…!’

I have no idea whether the defendants are innocent or guilty. My concern is simply that they haven’t had access to the rights and standards that should be afforded prisoners. They have been detained for extended periods without trial, and they’ve probably been beaten. They receive only vague charge sheets of what they’re accused of. I hope every case from the south is not like this one.

Time is flying by and it’s hard to keep this thing up to date. Lots going on so I’ll summarise as best I can. Thankfully Bangkok is still calm but the newspapers are rife with talk of a coup. The army has said PM Somchai should step down, but he’s refusing. I’ll keep you posted.

In less riveting Thai politics, I went out to observe the election for Bangkok Governor a few weeks ago. The five polling stations I saw were mostly good: peaceful, ordered, following procedures. The biggest problem was the lack of privacy at two polling stations. Me taking pictures obviously made some of the staff nervous, and they moved to fix it. Other problems were unsynchronised times between polling stations and a lack of ‘valid and ‘invalid’ ballot paper examples. In Thailand there are strict rules about what is a valid ballot; you’ve got to mark a cross with the centre in the square you want. There is no need for such strict rules if you can understand the voter’s intention, and if they want to keep that method they should make sure people understand it.

Polling officials sheepishly turning the benches around, so that they don't directly face the polling booths

Polling stations next to ancient monuments. Not sure if this was work or sightseeing

There were only a few serious contenders for the post of Bangkok Governor. The incumbent Apirak dominated the polls the whole way through. Dr Dan-Can-Do won the prize for the stupidest name and the cutest promotional girls wandering through the skytrain. Prapas, of the ruling PPP, did the best job of plastering Bangkok’s slums with cheesy fliers. But the hands down winner in terms of hilarious election-related media coverage was Chuwit, for punching an interviewer in the face after he was asked some nasty questions. This tactic didn’t pay off – reliable Apirak was voted back in.

Front page of the Bangkok Post. Hilarious

Besides the Bangkok election and reports on Cambodia, the Philippines and Indonesia, I’m still managing to see a bit of Bangkok. The mecca for western tourists, Khao Sarn Road, is a great place for a drink and a conversation in English, as long as you don’t mind paying twice the price for a beer. Some of the richest heritage I’ve ever seen is in central Bangkok: the Grand Palace, Reclining Buddha and the venerated but diminutive Emerald Buddha are amazing. Trips down the Chao Phraya River are lovely (much nicer than trips down the murky canals anyway). There are hectic markets everywhere but thankfully there are also plenty of bars to stop, enjoy a Singha and recharge. The tallest building in Bangkok, the Baiyoke Tower, has the best view of a city I’ve ever seen – from an outside revolving platform on level 84! You can top it off with a traditional and quirky puppet show that gives some sense of the pride Thais feel for their culture.

The Emerald Buddha: 45cm tall yet housed in this enormous temple

The Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho: hardly fits in this enormous temple

Khao Sarn Road: no Buddhas here

I feel that I won’t get the chance to see much more of Bangkok this year. ANFREL’s mission to observe the general elections in Bangladesh begins on 11 December and preparations are underway. It sounds like a long way away… but the way time flies here I can’t be too sure.

I’m glad to report that calm has returned to Bangkok. The Deputy PM responsible for security resigned, taking responsibility for the 7 October crackdown, and the PAD has pulled back to its Government House stronghold. Newspaper front pages are showing stories unrelated to the violence again. The atmosphere has settled, but I can’t help but think it’s temporary.

Debates are raging at many different levels. Internationally the Thai government is finding it hard to justify its actions on Tuesday to other nations, let alone remedy the worsening economic situation. The protests and rumours of another coup, which are as thick as the humidity here, are scaring investors and slowing the economy. That’s on top of the global financial crisis and plummeting Asian stock market.

Nationally the ruling People’s Power Party (PPP) is refusing to dissolve the Parliament and call fresh elections (although I’ve just read that PM Somchai, who has been in office for little more than three weeks, is considering resigning). The PAD will accept nothing less. The Thai executive and legislature are paralysed, unable to function in the deadlock between these two opposing forces.

Locally, the rift between the PPP and the PAD is polarising society. Many have heavily criticised the government for its heavy handedness, but neglect to mention the PAD’s violation of constitutional principles of peaceful and unarmed assembly. A Thai Airways pilot even refused PPP politicians to board his plane this week. On the other hand, pro-government supporters argue that the PAD’s stand is illegal and unprincipled, calling for democracy but proposing direct appointment of parliamentarians.

Who is in the right? In my opinion, neither. I agree with the PAD that all traces of Thaksin’s influence need to be removed from Thai politics. He was democratically elected, yes, but his populist policies neglected other facets of democracy such as the protection of minorities (particularly in the south) and responsible government (in the sense that he acted for his own benefit). The PPP are admittedly a proxy party for Thaksin and his banned Thai Rak Thai party, and even from England Thaksin still has an enormous influence here. For democracy in Thailand to truly reflect the will of the people it needs to start again, with intense voter education programs followed by fresh elections and steps to prevent vote buying.

However, I don’t agree with the PAD’s strategy, tactics or ideology. Their occupation of Government House is impressive but illegal – they could be using more legitimate means of protest and negotiation. They armed themselves for their march to Parliament on Tuesday, which goes beyond the freedom of assembly. Their emphasis of Tuesday as a tragedy fosters hateful attitudes and adds to the polarisation of Thai society. The proposal that 70% of MPs should be appointed rather than elected, and that some MPs should represent occupations rather than constituencies, is an interesting take on ‘democracy.’

But after Tuesday, PM Somchai has to go. Two weeks ago he could have overcome objections to his links to Thaksin (Somchai is his brother-in-law) but he handled this week very poorly. From a bystander’s view the Thai government seems to have lost the confidence of the people and should be dissolved to pave the way for fresh elections and a fresh start. Ideally this will happen without military involvement, but if the PPP refuses to let go, anything could happen.

Early this morning Thai police attacked People’s Alliance for Democracy (PAD) protesters in central Bangkok. In a move that signals it is stepping up its campaign, the PAD had marched to the National Parliament to disrupt new PM Somchai’s first policy address. Their idea was that if the government can’t make its policy statement, it cannot run the nation, and fresh elections will need to be called. The PAD succeeded in preventing the policy statement being read but suffered repeat attacks from the police who were reinforced by the military this afternoon. Somchai was forced to leave the Parliament by helicopter. You can see a timetable of today’s events here.

The police claim that they used only tear gas and stun grenades to disperse the protesters and gain access to the Parliament. However, two people died, at least four people lost a hand, foot or leg, and the PAD claim that over 380 people were injured. I cannot believe that the police used only tear gas and stun grenades to disperse the crowds if this was the result. You can see a video taken this morning here, and some pictures here and here (warning: graphic pictures).

In Bangkok there is a tradition for activists to gather at the Democracy Monument in times of civil strife to join

The Democracy Monument with a symbol of the Constitution in the centre. There are candles in the foreground and activists to the left. 7th September

forces and call for peace. Accepting a lift from someone at the NGO I went along at about 7pm tonight and met some of the group that had gathered there. However the turnout was low and people seemed unwilling to collaborate, which might have had something to do with their different backgrounds (they came from political parties, the PAD, NGOs, etc). I hope I’m wrong and this group can shout out loudly against violence; neither the PAD nor police show signs of stepping down.

I couldn’t resist a walk from the Democracy Monument down Ratchadamnoen Nok Road towards the Parliament. I passed large squadrons of heavily armed police (who motioned for me to stop when I went for my camera) as well as PAD supporters preparing sticks to use as weapons. By this time (9pm) the PAD had pulled back to Si Ayutthaya Road, just before Anantasamakhom Throne Hall. I soon discovered that this had been the site of the fourth (or fifth?) tear gas attack on the PAD – the gas was still in the air and after a few minutes I couldn’t stand the pain in my eyes. I can only imagine what being in a full cloud of the stuff must feel like.

PAD provided mountains of water so people could wash their eyes after exposure to tear gas

Chaos around the Rama V statue at the Anantasamakhom Throne Hall, 7th September

I retreated to the main PAD encampment near Government House receiving water, an eye rinse, a face mask and even a meal on the way. The crowd was listening to inspirational stories from the PAD leaders, one of which translated to something like ‘the people are like water and the police are the fish. Normally they are in harmony, but after today, the water doesn’t want the fish anymore!’ The crowd observed a minute’s silence for one of today’s deceased. Earlier they had cheered and parted to let a man through who was holding his bandaged hand high, like a trophy. Only afterwards I realised that this man had lost his hand earlier in the day, and was returning triumphant to declare to the crowd ‘even if I lose my other hand I will still fight the government!’

The loss of a hand made this man a hero and inspiration to others. 7th September

PAD supporters show no signs of letting up. 7th September

This sort of attitude can only bring more violence to Bangkok. Its political crisis is beginning to peak. PAD supporters had already been energised by the arrest of two prominent leaders, and the PAD has been clever to capitalise on this energy to step up its campaign and march on Parliament. PAD supporters claim a right to use force to defend themselves (see their blog), but today this resulted in the hospitalisation of two police officers. Violence is coming from both sides and, at present, it looks likely to continue. If this is the case then a coup also becomes more likely, which neither the PAD nor government want.

I can’t believe I’ve been here two and a half weeks already. Time’s gone so fast that I’m only now writing about week one! I’ll start with the work I’ve been doing, which started within a few hours of getting off the plane. I was asked to edit the draft report on ANFREL’s mission to observe the national assembly elections in Cambodia (July 08). The draft was good, but needed expanding.

Writing about an election you didn’t witness and have little background on is tricky. How you phrase something can affect the tone of the report and how it is received by the target country. A simple example: ‘The level of knowledge about the election in rural areas was low’ compared to ‘The election commission’s efforts to educate voters in rural areas were insufficient’. While both statements imply that greater voter education is needed, the second quote blames the election commission for the failure. This might be good, if it prompts the EC to improve for future elections, or it might be bad, if the particular rejects the direct criticism and gives less weight to the report’s conclusions than it might have done otherwise.

I’m working from field reports, news websites for some context and, I admit, a little wikipedia. Thankfully I’ve already got some background on how an observation mission works from a stint as a short term observer for the Nepalese elections in April 08. Even so, I’m constantly asking for the opinions of people in the office who were actually there. I’ve no doubt that my sections on contentious matters like the lack of privacy at polling stations and names missing from the voter list will be revised to make sure the report strikes the right balance between criticism and neutrality. I’m sure I’ll pick up the knack over the next few months.

The other major task in the first week was a preliminary funding proposal for the EU in respect of a three-year series of seminars and workshops for civil society groups across Asia. I’m glad to be involved as writing good proposals will be a useful skill – I can’t say the same about struggling through the EU’s convoluted online registration systems though. Honestly, you think you could make a compulsory NGO registration process user friendly! An animated tutorial voiced over by Judi Dench didn’t help either (if it wasn’t her I swear it was an impersonator).

Outside the office I’m loving the people I’m meeting. Mostly from the NGO sector here, they work hard and party even harder. A lot of their inspiration comes from figures involved in the underground struggle against military rule in Thailand (Thailand 1932-1973). I’ll never forget how a small 25^th birthday party turned into a smashed singalong of Thai revolutionary songs led by two hilarious older guys who had fled to the jungle in the 1970s to fight against the government. They even sang John Lennon’s Imagine in English to make me feel welcome, which was a bit embarrassing because they knew more words than I did.

The next day I went for a look around the current demonstrations against the Thai government. This was eye-opening too, although it involved less whiskey and more rain. The PAD (People’s Alliance for Democracy) have occupied Government House in Bangkok for months now, erecting massive concert-style marquees in the carpark and setting up food outlets and shops to maintain their supporters there 24 hours a day. They originally formed to fight former PM Thaksin and his Thai Rak Thai party, now banned, but the PAD continue to protest against the proxy party that won the 2007 elections. PAD leaders have shown more willingness to negotiate with Thailand’s new PM, Somchai, but are being arrested one by one (Top PAD leader arrested at Bangkok polling station; held despite political truce). While I don’t agree with their methods or their demands (they’re trying to overthrow a democratically elected government by obstructing state institutions) I was stunned by the scale and intensity of the movement. Political activism is alive and kicking in Thailand. Let’s just hope it doesn’t lead to yet another coup (ICG: Instability may bring coup).

Some children have a low opinion of Thaksin too...

Political demonstration or concert? The PAD in Bangkok

It’s been a lot easier to adjust to living in another country than I imagined. While the trip from Perth to Bangkok was shit (Tiger is a budget airline not only in name), my mood was instantly lightened by the most energetic, fun and selfless Thai man you’ll ever meet. After picking me up from the airport Song took me for a hearty breakfast of rice, vegetables and beef soup, and it’s been a hoot ever since.

This is my blog, where I’ll be filling everyone in on just what saving democracy in Asia entails. I’m in Bangkok for five months with a regional NGO called The Asian Network for Free Elections (ANFREL). It’s been around for more than ten years but I’m not going to bore you with the details – you can see those for yourself here: www.anfrel.org. To everyone who also gets these updates by email or facebook, I apologise. But hey, pretty good for someone who only recently found out what a blog looked like.

The ANFREL office on the right of a small soi. It gets smoky when vendors cook dinner here

This first entry is my first impressions and thoughts on fitting in. A lot of support from people at the NGO (read: offers to help translate) has made the transition very easy. I’m very lucky in this regard, as planning an internship and selecting an NGO from a website or word-of-mouth can be hit and miss, and some of my friends’ experiences haven’t been so great. I’m doing most of my work with Song, a veteran of many social justice causes and organisations in Thailand. From many late night talks I’m learning a lot about Thai customs and politics, as well as social problems here like corruption and child labour. I’m also working a lot with P’ Sui (in Thailand you say ‘P’’ when referring to a respected elder) who knows politics in Asia inside out. It’s a busy year for ANFREL which meant starting work the day I arrived in Bangkok, after a quick nap upstairs. Thankfully I found a room later that day just 30m from the office.

Three restaurants across the street. Was that rice, noodles, or... rice?

So far, at least, I’ve been kept busy by the new environment and people I’ve been meeting. The suburb is off the tourist track but still busy during the day and night. Of course the language has been a barrier but with some enthusiastic gesturing and a ‘kop kuhn krup’ I can order a meal and, more importantly, a beer. Thai food is as delicious as it is varied, as long as my tastebuds aren’t too numb from the chilli. Breakfast, lunch and dinner at local restaurants cost about $1-$2 each, and king browns of local beer are just $1.40!

It is hot and humid here but not that bad. Being the rainy season the heavens can unleash torrential downpours at a moment’s notice, though, which I experienced on my first touristy day out last weekend. Abandoning my plan to cross the river and see the Wat Arun temple, I dived into the only waiting taxi to go home. There I learnt how the climate can affect Thailand’s economy – the driver claimed the meter was broken and demanded 250 baht for a 60 baht trip. Refusing to be held to ransom by the rain, I got the next taxi.

In short, the work is great, I’ve had no problems adjusting, and it’s absolutely worth the effort it took to get here. It’s taken me two weeks to get this started so I aim to update it at least that often. Before I go I must admit, it’s not all easy. I’m missing a lot of family and friends back in Oz. Well, maybe not a lot, but definitely one or two. But the hardest thing to adjust to? ANFREL’s American spelling, and agreeing with Microsoft that ‘organisation’ should be spelled with a ‘z’.

]]> http://marclivsey.wordpress.com/2008/10/02/adjusting-from-s-to-z/feed/ 1 marclivsey The ANFREL office off a small soi... it gets smoky when vendors cook dinner here Three restaurants across the street. Was that rice, noodles, or... rice?